el Hamdallah!!! (Thanks be to God!!!) Even at the worst of times I seem to be blessed with sheer brainless luck!
Tonight I tried to commission a taxi driver who didn't really know how to get me home. Before we went on our merry way, he stopped to ask for directions, and then since he found someone who could translate for us he wanted to negotiate the price (instead of me simply paying what I thought would be fair at the end of the ride). Because I'm a foreigner he wanted me to pay 30 pounds, but since I've been traveling that route regularly for 15 pounds I refused, offering 20 pounds as my last price. When he would not go below 25 I decided it was time to get out of the cab.
Unfortunately in my haste, my wallet fell out of my bag as I exited, and I didn't notice this until I was on the street and he was starting to drive off (with all the money I had on me, oops!).
What could I do?
Of course, the only 'sensible' thing to do was chase him down. So off I went without a thought, with yelps and arms flailing in huge dramatic gestures, praying he'd look in his rear view mirror.
Can you picture it?!
After one of the quickest 50m dashes I've ever performed in my life I got his attention... not to mention all of the other drivers on the road and loads of other onlookers out for their evening strolls. Needless to say, after retrieving the wallet, I had no trouble finding another cab.
And to make up for it, this driver knew how to get me home, was happy to do it for 20 pounds, and had a great laugh with me about my near mishap on the way.
Lessons learned: a) never keep all your money in one spot on your body, and b) making a fool of yourself may be the quickest way to make friends here. Insha'Allah, you'll make it home alright.
Monday, September 24, 2007
Thursday, September 20, 2007
watching women
we are
wired with self-conscious
elbows
ankles
and curves,
hiding beneath cloth canopies
for public protection.
Eyes: side-wize
or furtive flustering ensues
while he whistles, wanders form,
with undressing looks.
Can he sneak an innocuous grope,
heavy-breathed and light-handed
for a foreign female infidel
in an abstaining holy month?
whosh, an accidental hand slipping reward
for services rendered.
shokrun metro.
shokrun shokrun.
like an empty vase,
smooth curves caressed.
even at our most conservative.
this stifling heat.
and then, the bubble bursts:
with a brilliance of female faithfulness
we are born unto ourselves
with private popcorn
solidarity
and forgiveness?
well, perspective.
and examples from our minority
of this minority
of misguided 'protectors'.
oh, the politics of power
to be lived afresh each day
and the hallmarks of equality
that have been stolen since Eve.
Yet it is a male curse to be pitied
for their fear entraps us all.
I am sorry,
brothers.
Let us share the load.
wired with self-conscious
elbows
ankles
and curves,
hiding beneath cloth canopies
for public protection.
Eyes: side-wize
or furtive flustering ensues
while he whistles, wanders form,
with undressing looks.
Can he sneak an innocuous grope,
heavy-breathed and light-handed
for a foreign female infidel
in an abstaining holy month?
whosh, an accidental hand slipping reward
for services rendered.
shokrun metro.
shokrun shokrun.
like an empty vase,
smooth curves caressed.
even at our most conservative.
this stifling heat.
and then, the bubble bursts:
with a brilliance of female faithfulness
we are born unto ourselves
with private popcorn
solidarity
and forgiveness?
well, perspective.
and examples from our minority
of this minority
of misguided 'protectors'.
oh, the politics of power
to be lived afresh each day
and the hallmarks of equality
that have been stolen since Eve.
Yet it is a male curse to be pitied
for their fear entraps us all.
I am sorry,
brothers.
Let us share the load.
the crazy cacophony of Cairo: what's in a honk?
One of the biggest adjustments so far - and a great source of adventure for me - is sorting out the transit systems in Cairo. As you can imagine, a city of roughly 20 million has huge transportation needs... voila, a maze of streets milling with taxis, buses, donkeys, cars and frequent traffic jams; not to mention overcrowded subway lines. So far I haven't had any major fiascoes apart from a walk-by groper in the metro terminal (who was quickly scolded and apologized for by the men around me), but there is certainly a steep learning curve for the Arabic names and negotiations with taxi drivers. Here's what I've gleaned so far:
1. Get out the Map!
... and keep it out! A good map/book of Cairo neighbourhoods is handy when you're not sure the taxi driver's on the right track, or while getting your bearings as a pedestrian.
2. On Foot: be Brave but Brainy...
a) When trying to cross a busy road get a group together if possible and go lane by lane.
b) Trust that those barreling cars (six lanes where the lines would suggest four) will go around you, but keep a vigilant eye on them too! (I nearly had a heart attack my first time, but when I reached the other side I was filled with a huge sense of accomplishment!)
3. On Tallying Taxis
a) Always confidently pay what you think is fair (there's no meter running, and no bartering before you get in). As a green foreigner the driver may try to take advantage so this is important.
b) At the same time, if you've under-estimated, be prepared to add to your fare. I'm still working on the whole distance/pay estimation thing!
and finally...
4. what's in a honk?
The last time I lived in Africa I woke up to the sound of roosters (at all times of night/day). Well here it's definitely the horns. Yesterday I began dreaming about traffic and horns just before I woke up because, in Cairo, to say horns are used plentifully is an understatement. But there are motives for the madness. Here are a few of my favourite auto interpretations...
a) the "hello" honk: a frequent, soft, and curt beep
b) the "let's get this show on the road" honk: bebebebeepp beep beeeep - getting progressively louder! (Used when traffic police are taking too long to let your group go, or when there's a cluster of cars ready to cut across oncoming traffic.)
c) the "coming through" honk: beep beeeeeep!!
d) the "want a ride?" honk: beep.... beep.... beeep?
e) the "I'm waiting" honk: the beeep beeep beeep public scolding
f) the "we just won the football match" honk: bep bep beep bep bep bep bedebedebeep bep beeeep bebebeep!
How's that for a woot woot?! And this is but the beginning!
1. Get out the Map!
... and keep it out! A good map/book of Cairo neighbourhoods is handy when you're not sure the taxi driver's on the right track, or while getting your bearings as a pedestrian.
2. On Foot: be Brave but Brainy...
a) When trying to cross a busy road get a group together if possible and go lane by lane.
b) Trust that those barreling cars (six lanes where the lines would suggest four) will go around you, but keep a vigilant eye on them too! (I nearly had a heart attack my first time, but when I reached the other side I was filled with a huge sense of accomplishment!)
3. On Tallying Taxis
a) Always confidently pay what you think is fair (there's no meter running, and no bartering before you get in). As a green foreigner the driver may try to take advantage so this is important.
b) At the same time, if you've under-estimated, be prepared to add to your fare. I'm still working on the whole distance/pay estimation thing!
and finally...
4. what's in a honk?
The last time I lived in Africa I woke up to the sound of roosters (at all times of night/day). Well here it's definitely the horns. Yesterday I began dreaming about traffic and horns just before I woke up because, in Cairo, to say horns are used plentifully is an understatement. But there are motives for the madness. Here are a few of my favourite auto interpretations...
a) the "hello" honk: a frequent, soft, and curt beep
b) the "let's get this show on the road" honk: bebebebeepp beep beeeep - getting progressively louder! (Used when traffic police are taking too long to let your group go, or when there's a cluster of cars ready to cut across oncoming traffic.)
c) the "coming through" honk: beep beeeeeep!!
d) the "want a ride?" honk: beep.... beep.... beeep?
e) the "I'm waiting" honk: the beeep beeep beeep public scolding
f) the "we just won the football match" honk: bep bep beep bep bep bep bedebedebeep bep beeeep bebebeep!
How's that for a woot woot?! And this is but the beginning!
Monday, September 17, 2007
"Welcome to my family"
"Do you have a headache?" George asked.
"No" I replied, quizzical.
"Well, I will give you one" he joked.
I had to grin.
Meet George: the dedicated Mennonite Central Committee staff member and PPIC-Work accountant that picked me up at the airport at 2:00 this morning, and showed me apartments tonight after his long day of work. An ideal Egyptian tour guide, George knows the history behind the ornate architecture that whizzes past us as we weave through traffic, and shares openly about his life and family.
It's Ramadan - the lunar month of fasting in the Muslim world - so everything is altered. Lazy afternoons turn into frantic traffic jams as sunset approaches... full-bellied horns blaring again at 9:30pm. If you time things wrong restaurants will be fresh out of your favourite dishes as almost happened to us tonight; but, on the other hand, shops are open past midnight and people linger on the streets. It's a beautiful time to come!
Perhaps I'm just seeing Cairo through the rosy glow yet... the first 24 hours have certainly been gentle! Richard (the director of PTE and overall coordinator of PPIC-Work who splits his time between Egypt and Canada), arranged for me to come just after his arrival in Cairo, and put me up in a nice hotel until we get the apartments settled tomorrow. Once we have the logistics sorted, I'll continue familiarizing myself with the project by reading all the background materials I can get my hands on, meeting the staff, and tapping Richard's wealth of knowledge a bit more.
I have tremendous respect for Richard. He has a thoughtful, gentle, spirit and is extremely dedicated to this work. I really appreciate his collaborative and responsive approach to programming, and the way he seeks to sensitively reinforce local systems instead of asserting Western ideas. I think that's incredibly important in this line of work.
Oh, and on the subject of work, the first thing on the agenda for tomorrow is moving into my new flat!! I will actually be staying in George's old flat for a time - perhaps even permanently. I'm hoping to find someone to share the space (and cost) with, but in all other respects it seems perfect! George has been incredibly generous with his time - taking me by the MCC office so I could meet some young Mennos tonight, arranging for me to attend a couple of events this week, and making sure I have food and money as needed. When he called tonight to confirm plans for Thursday I thanked him again for his support and he responded with the best words in the world: "Welcome to my family!".
What a wonderful way to start out here!
"No" I replied, quizzical.
"Well, I will give you one" he joked.
I had to grin.
Meet George: the dedicated Mennonite Central Committee staff member and PPIC-Work accountant that picked me up at the airport at 2:00 this morning, and showed me apartments tonight after his long day of work. An ideal Egyptian tour guide, George knows the history behind the ornate architecture that whizzes past us as we weave through traffic, and shares openly about his life and family.
It's Ramadan - the lunar month of fasting in the Muslim world - so everything is altered. Lazy afternoons turn into frantic traffic jams as sunset approaches... full-bellied horns blaring again at 9:30pm. If you time things wrong restaurants will be fresh out of your favourite dishes as almost happened to us tonight; but, on the other hand, shops are open past midnight and people linger on the streets. It's a beautiful time to come!
Perhaps I'm just seeing Cairo through the rosy glow yet... the first 24 hours have certainly been gentle! Richard (the director of PTE and overall coordinator of PPIC-Work who splits his time between Egypt and Canada), arranged for me to come just after his arrival in Cairo, and put me up in a nice hotel until we get the apartments settled tomorrow. Once we have the logistics sorted, I'll continue familiarizing myself with the project by reading all the background materials I can get my hands on, meeting the staff, and tapping Richard's wealth of knowledge a bit more.
I have tremendous respect for Richard. He has a thoughtful, gentle, spirit and is extremely dedicated to this work. I really appreciate his collaborative and responsive approach to programming, and the way he seeks to sensitively reinforce local systems instead of asserting Western ideas. I think that's incredibly important in this line of work.
Oh, and on the subject of work, the first thing on the agenda for tomorrow is moving into my new flat!! I will actually be staying in George's old flat for a time - perhaps even permanently. I'm hoping to find someone to share the space (and cost) with, but in all other respects it seems perfect! George has been incredibly generous with his time - taking me by the MCC office so I could meet some young Mennos tonight, arranging for me to attend a couple of events this week, and making sure I have food and money as needed. When he called tonight to confirm plans for Thursday I thanked him again for his support and he responded with the best words in the world: "Welcome to my family!".
What a wonderful way to start out here!
Friday, September 7, 2007
en route reflections
Well, I left Canada just over a day ago, and the reality of moving away from family and friends has begun to set in on another level. Fortunately I get to make this transition incrementally... I've stopped off in Europe for two weeks to visit friends and family while PTE and EACID nail down a few final details (little things like my accommodations, and hiring my Egyptian counterpart). I'm not worried though... inshallah (God willing) things will come together.
During the hop across the pond I had a chance to reflect more on this journey and the people I'm missing in Canada. Earlier this summer I wrote a poem for my parents about this transition, and as it sums up many of my thoughts I'd like to share it with you here:
The Nomad
Five years, twenty countries, thirteen homes…
It’s time to stop counting.
Yet the caravan of bikes, boats, buses,
camels, cars,
planes, trains,
trams, trucks, and trotros
that have tussled me around the world -
and the tapestry of familiar far-off faces
come crowding in with fond reminiscence.
“How do you feel about being a nomad?” she asks.
“To meet incredible souls all over this beautiful blue ball,
but forever be leaving them behind?
“Do you ever get tired of uprooting?”
Well, my sister, only my heart can tell of that pain -
of the longing and loneliness of separation,
of hollowness,
the folly of attachment,
of forgetting…
of facing a future away from family
and a past of disconnection...
But only my heart can sing of the splendour -
of roots nourished in the soil of your global smiles,
of the joy of learning...
that all our hearts beat as one,
that your pain is my pain is our pain, and
that as we share the burden it melts as a moth’s wing in the light.
This is what gives me the strength to travel.
This is the blessing I live each day.
Only, I needed to remember.
I needed to acknowledge, with gratitude,
the gifts I have been given in this life,
And the people who have sacrificed
for my love of this quest.
Now the wind is calling across the Sahara
the caravan is ready to move camp
but this time may it be a journey of integration
no severed ties, no empty hollows -
just peace and freedom echoing across our souls.
During the hop across the pond I had a chance to reflect more on this journey and the people I'm missing in Canada. Earlier this summer I wrote a poem for my parents about this transition, and as it sums up many of my thoughts I'd like to share it with you here:
The Nomad
Five years, twenty countries, thirteen homes…
It’s time to stop counting.
Yet the caravan of bikes, boats, buses,
camels, cars,
planes, trains,
trams, trucks, and trotros
that have tussled me around the world -
and the tapestry of familiar far-off faces
come crowding in with fond reminiscence.
“How do you feel about being a nomad?” she asks.
“To meet incredible souls all over this beautiful blue ball,
but forever be leaving them behind?
“Do you ever get tired of uprooting?”
Well, my sister, only my heart can tell of that pain -
of the longing and loneliness of separation,
of hollowness,
the folly of attachment,
of forgetting…
of facing a future away from family
and a past of disconnection...
But only my heart can sing of the splendour -
of roots nourished in the soil of your global smiles,
of the joy of learning...
that all our hearts beat as one,
that your pain is my pain is our pain, and
that as we share the burden it melts as a moth’s wing in the light.
This is what gives me the strength to travel.
This is the blessing I live each day.
Only, I needed to remember.
I needed to acknowledge, with gratitude,
the gifts I have been given in this life,
And the people who have sacrificed
for my love of this quest.
Now the wind is calling across the Sahara
the caravan is ready to move camp
but this time may it be a journey of integration
no severed ties, no empty hollows -
just peace and freedom echoing across our souls.
Monday, September 3, 2007
New Beginnings
The countdown is on to my arrival in Cairo (Sept. 17th), and with each passing day the anticipation increases. I have had the opportunity to volunteer and study abroad before, (including a ten month stint in Ghana while in university), yet, this is my first time living and working on my own, and in this part of the world. So, although I'm trying not to come with many expectations for the internship or the next seven months, I'm looking forward to a new flavour of life in Egypt and the work I'll be doing with Mennonite Economic Development Associates (MEDA), Partners in Technology Exchange (PTE), and the Egyptian Association for Community Initiatives and Development (EACID).
Speaking of work, perhaps you'd appreciate hearing a bit about the project context and position itself. Let me begin with a disclaimer: I'm still deepening in my understanding of the project and won't fully grasp my role within the team until I'm there, so forgive me if I don't do them justice yet.
Officially, I'll be a Child Rights Research Associate Intern with the "Promoting and Protecting the Interests of Children who Work" or PPIC-Work project. The Project is a collaborative venture between MEDA, PTE, and EACID, merging Micro-Finance strategies with rights based programming to support children at the margins of society. Funded by the Canadian International Development Agency (CIDA), PPIC-Work is now in the latter stages of its programming, expanding from its Aswan base to the metropolis of Cairo. While in Egypt my energy will be focused on the new Cairo "Learning through Work" component: exploring and documenting apprenticeship skills children gain from employment in four technical trades; assisting with broader project activities, monitoring, and evaluation; serving as a liaison between Canadian and Egyptian partners; and perhaps connecting with the MEDA tour in November!
Working with children who are working is an interesting ethical issue to navigate from a child rights and micro-finance perspective. While some people and institutions believe that no children below the age of 14 should work, MEDA, PTE, and EACID suggest that given the complex cultural and economic systems involved, it can be both a) appropriate and b) necessary for children to work. In Egypt, working children are said to provide an average of 25% of a family's income... a vital income for impoverished families struggling to make ends meet. Also, in some ways it is culturally acceptable for children to work - as a result of weak formal education systems and complex family issues children may enter into informal apprenticeship systems that will get them on their career path as opposed to going to a technical training school for this. However, there are huge conditionalities to MEDA/PTE/EACID's acceptance of children's work: children should NOT be abused or exploited, forced to perform dangerous work (eg. carry heavy loads, work with fire, operate unsafe machinery etc), or hindered from accessing formal education. In other words they're right on board with the ILO convention on the worst forms of child labour. Furthermore, MEDA/PTE/EACID/ believe that a child's participation in the labour force should contribute to their development of valuable professional and life skills. (In other words it's not cool if they're never promoted beyond the errand-running or tea-serving level in the office hierarchy).
So now, you might be asking "This philosophy is all well and good but how exactly does PPIC-Work support children's interests?". Well, our MFIs partner with micro-enterprises in technical trades, providing them with loans with strings attached... they must be committed to improving the work environment for their child workers. Of course, the loans must also benefit the business owners; they may go towards an investment in new technology, as seed capital for a family to start their own business (which 'coincidently' allows the children more flexible work hours and increased opportunities for school), or simply allow them to purchase more inputs for their business - as long as they also invest in their workers. Essentially, the rights framework is embedded within economic programming, providing positive incentives for change (or, engineering social impacts, if you will). I think it's brilliant!
Speaking of work, perhaps you'd appreciate hearing a bit about the project context and position itself. Let me begin with a disclaimer: I'm still deepening in my understanding of the project and won't fully grasp my role within the team until I'm there, so forgive me if I don't do them justice yet.
Officially, I'll be a Child Rights Research Associate Intern with the "Promoting and Protecting the Interests of Children who Work" or PPIC-Work project. The Project is a collaborative venture between MEDA, PTE, and EACID, merging Micro-Finance strategies with rights based programming to support children at the margins of society. Funded by the Canadian International Development Agency (CIDA), PPIC-Work is now in the latter stages of its programming, expanding from its Aswan base to the metropolis of Cairo. While in Egypt my energy will be focused on the new Cairo "Learning through Work" component: exploring and documenting apprenticeship skills children gain from employment in four technical trades; assisting with broader project activities, monitoring, and evaluation; serving as a liaison between Canadian and Egyptian partners; and perhaps connecting with the MEDA tour in November!
Working with children who are working is an interesting ethical issue to navigate from a child rights and micro-finance perspective. While some people and institutions believe that no children below the age of 14 should work, MEDA, PTE, and EACID suggest that given the complex cultural and economic systems involved, it can be both a) appropriate and b) necessary for children to work. In Egypt, working children are said to provide an average of 25% of a family's income... a vital income for impoverished families struggling to make ends meet. Also, in some ways it is culturally acceptable for children to work - as a result of weak formal education systems and complex family issues children may enter into informal apprenticeship systems that will get them on their career path as opposed to going to a technical training school for this. However, there are huge conditionalities to MEDA/PTE/EACID's acceptance of children's work: children should NOT be abused or exploited, forced to perform dangerous work (eg. carry heavy loads, work with fire, operate unsafe machinery etc), or hindered from accessing formal education. In other words they're right on board with the ILO convention on the worst forms of child labour. Furthermore, MEDA/PTE/EACID/ believe that a child's participation in the labour force should contribute to their development of valuable professional and life skills. (In other words it's not cool if they're never promoted beyond the errand-running or tea-serving level in the office hierarchy).
So now, you might be asking "This philosophy is all well and good but how exactly does PPIC-Work support children's interests?". Well, our MFIs partner with micro-enterprises in technical trades, providing them with loans with strings attached... they must be committed to improving the work environment for their child workers. Of course, the loans must also benefit the business owners; they may go towards an investment in new technology, as seed capital for a family to start their own business (which 'coincidently' allows the children more flexible work hours and increased opportunities for school), or simply allow them to purchase more inputs for their business - as long as they also invest in their workers. Essentially, the rights framework is embedded within economic programming, providing positive incentives for change (or, engineering social impacts, if you will). I think it's brilliant!
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